Bay of Islands, New Zealand

8 Feb

There are some places in the world that instantly feel lighter — like the air is softer, the colours brighter, and life just moves at its own gentle rhythm. For us, the Bay of Islands was exactly that kind of place. It was one of those days where we found ourselves slowing down without even trying, simply taking in the beauty and spirit of this northern gem.

We started our adventure in the small coastal town of Paihia, where everything seems to smile — including the benches. Each one was painted in bright, happy colours, and they set the tone for our whole morning.

We wandered past the old library, poked our heads into little boutiques and galleries, and strolled along the waterfront where the breeze carried that unmistakable salty-sweet scent of the sea. Paihia has the perfect mix of energy and calm: busy enough to feel alive, but never rushed.

Just a short walk from town are the Waitangi Treaty Grounds, one of the most important historical sites in all of New Zealand. Standing there, you can feel the weight and significance of the place.

This is where Māori chiefs and the British Crown signed the Treaty of Waitangi in 1840, an agreement that shaped the entire nation. Today, visitors can walk through the beautifully preserved grounds, visit the carved meeting house, see traditional waka (canoes), and experience cultural performances that honour both the pain and the pride woven into New Zealand’s history.

It feels both humbling and hopeful, a place where stories still echo through the trees.

From Paihia, we boarded the ferry across the bay to Russell, once known as the “Hellhole of the Pacific.” You’d never guess that now — the Russell of today is charming, peaceful, and proudly historic.

We wandered down the quiet shoreline, past cottages with verandas overflowing with flowers, and stopped at a cosy little coffee shop for a drink. There’s such a lovely community feel here, dogs waiting patiently on boats for their owners, children playing under pōhutukawa trees, locals waving to every passing face.

One of the most fascinating spots was the small Christ Church which the oldest surviving church in New Zealand. If you look closely, the walls still bear bullet holes from historical conflicts. It’s eerie and deeply moving knowing the building stood through so much.

At one point, we even found swings hanging from tree branches along the waterfront, and of course, we couldn’t resist having a go. There’s something magical about feeling like a kid again with the sea stretching out in front of you.

In the afternoon, we joined a boat tour that carried us out into the wide, sunlit sweep of the bay. Over 140 islands lie scattered across the water here, and each one felt like its own tiny world.

We passed rugged coastlines, bright green hills, and stretches of water that shifted from deep sapphire to bright turquoise in seconds. A whole island shimmering white with bird droppings, lovingly nicknamed “New Zealand Snow”, gave us a good laugh.

We spotted seals sunbathing on warm rocks, birds wheeling overhead, and the occasional house tucked on remote islands that seemed too beautiful to be real.

But the absolute highlight was reaching the famous Hole in the Rock on Motukōkako. Carved by centuries of wind and waves, this massive sea arch feels almost mythical like something nature created just to show off.

The swells were wild that day, and the captain warned us the passage is narrow, the currents unpredictable. Not every boat can go through. But we were lucky — the conditions were right, and with a steady hand at the wheel, we made the crossing.

The ride was very rocky, the spray of the ocean completely drenching us as we edged closer. And then, suddenly, we were inside the cavern, dark, booming with echoing waves, before bursting out the other side into open blue light.

Watching the Hole in the Rock shrink behind us as we sailed away felt surreal. It’s one of those moments that stays with you long after the journey ends.

The Bay of Islands gave us everything: history, culture, wildlife, stunning landscapes.. It felt like a place that stitched together adventure with peacefulness, laughter with reflection.

2025-02